Trust me...

30 December 2010

Driving...again

Today I witnessed the following:
  • Tailgating at 120KPH
  • Exiting from the left hand lane across 5 lanes at the last second at high speed
  • Lane weaving on the freeway 
  • Overtaking on the inside lane
  • Using the emergency lane to overtake
  • Speaking on the phone with one hand, holding a cigarette with the other and steering with the knees
  • Reading a document while driving at speed
  • Jumping a red light - by coming from behind the second car that had already stopped
  • Weaving round pedestrians already 1/2 way across the carriageway
Now this is all pretty routine stuff; I doubt a journey goes by anywhere in the country where you would not see all these behaviours and more.

But these were all POLICE cars.  What chance of change do we have if the police don't even try?

23 December 2010

Magic in 21st Century

 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-12060507

This BBC report is about children killed by their gullible and rather stupid parents using Alternative Medicines instead of proven and efficacious treatments from a proper doctor.  These parents, while probably not criminal in the usual sense, are though criminally responsible for the deaths of their children.  In today's world, in the first world, with universal education and good health care in most places, except the US, for even the poorest there is no excuse for this level of idiocy.

So why do people choose to believe in 'natural' therapies or alternative treatments?  Why are these felt to be more effective than drugs with years of testing and proof behind them?

Part of it is certainly because people  - ordinary people not scientifically trained - find anecdotal evidence more compelling than the statistics behind a full scale regulated double blind test in a laboratory.  You can't talk to the testers but you can talk to Aunt Mary about her friend who made the mircaculous recovery from terminal cancer by eschewing the very unpleasant high tech treatments her doctor offered in favour of a nice herbal tea and a homeopathic flower remedy.  Aunt Mary never mentions how her friend later died horribly and in pain after a brief period of remission...

And this dangerous farce gets government support too.  Of course it does it is cheaper than proper medical treatment and people seem happier with the results even when patients die unnecessarily.

I despair.

So I'm off for a session with my Shaman to see if he can bring my spirit back to health.

22 December 2010

Changes

It's coming up to Christmas and so far it looks like it's going to be little different from last year.  Despite massive optimism and boatloads of hard work none of our deals has yet turned into hard cash.

Ras al Khaimah came and went in a flurry of recriminations between the partners and left a bunch of unhappy people in the lurch.  Me included but what about the customers and internal clients we had built good relationships with?  It hurts to let them go.

The Al Khabeer training company also came and went.  Should have seen that earlier but I wasn't the only one who fell for it.  At least two people lost significant amounts of money in the process.  I had none to lose fortunately and was sufficiently suspicious from early on not to get too close.  Nonetheless there's the risk of losing a good new friendship with a good guy from KSA.  Hopefully he'll be back in the New Year and we can move on from that disaster.

And now we're looking to new possibilities - starting again but with lessons learned and new hopes all round.  A couple of commodity deals involving oil and diamonds are reaching critical stages; new businesses in insurance, security and economic development as well as political consulting look like they might make a splash. 

The new year comes with the same hope last year did but a lot more confidence that something will drop out the other side.

The critical point being that everyone is in the same boat here.  My story is repeated more or less similarly by all the expats - employed or  entrepreneurs alike.  Little new business was completed last year but the signs are good for '11.

There are downside indicators too for Dubai.  There's still far too many new properties being constructed, commercial and residential, given the numbers of empty completed offerings available.  People are still trying to hang on to the past and rents are still falling and landlords reluctant to let at current rates and instead they hang on, hoping for a recovery.  And some are still trying to persist with the old practice of a year's rent in advance.  Yet they wonder why their properties remain empty.  Jumeirah Beach Residence and Jumeirah Lakes Towers look like ghost towns at night - some long completed buildings showing only a handful of lights at night.

And rumours abound of another semi-state run enterprise going the same way as Nakheel and of huge personal defaults by senior members of the ruling family.  And the constant local cultural inability to be transparent about it.

And there's been a flurry of legislation making it tougher for expats, not least the reduction in the length of work permits/visas to  2 years.  Not to mention no sign of the long discussed end of indentured servitude in the form of 'Sponsorship" and stealth tax/state appropriation in the need for 51% local ownership of companies outside FreeZones.

I must say a relocation is looking more attractive every day.  Let's see if we can get some stability this year.  Personally and nationally.  Or maybe go to Bahrain or Sri Lanka on spec.

10 December 2010

I love Fridays

When I lived in the UK I made it a point, for most of my working life, never to work on a Friday.  Even if that meant working all weekend to keep up.  Though if I ever did work a weekend I never told anyone as I found that an air of wonder about my short working hours helped keep fee rates up and improve people's recall of the odd consultant they enjoyed hiring or the strangely valuable yet difficult employee they never quite got round to firing.

The thing is though, it always made Fridays seem special and my wife and I could often accomplish more fun and general good stuff on a Friday than most people over a whole vacation.

Now we live in the Middle East and in the Muslim world where Friday is a holy day.  Kinda like a Christian Sunday or Jewish Sabbath.  Every one sleeps in late, goes to the mosque, families hang out together, the world is generally quiet until quite late and there is not a lot of noisy traffic.  Until the evening, when it becomes party and shopping  time.  This works well because Saturday is also the weekend and people have the second day to recover.  Then back to work on Sunday.

Unless your clients, like most of mine, are in the US or EU.  When Sunday is their Friday.  Not much to do; so I don't often work Sundays. 

I've still got my Fridays off thought the special frisson of illicit goofing off is transferred to Sunday.  But it's odd, even after living here a good while I still feel ever so slightly guilty 'bout not working Friday, just like before.  It's my anchor.

Even though I earn my living helping companies and countries adapt to change I don't like it any more than anyone else.  It's all around me of course just as it's all around everyone else.  It's wholly unavoidable and yet omnipresent.  Get over it; get used to it. 

Which is where Friday comes in. 

About the best tool you have to deal with constant and accellerating change is an anchor.  Something that doesn't change; there's always something.  It might be your family, your kids or spouse.  It might be your home, your hobby, some aspect of your work or study, a hobby, a sport.  But something; there's always something.  Find it and cherish it so that as the economy makes a bumpy handcart trip to a hot climate you remain cool and collected and unjolted by the constant battering of reality.  While your industry rockets to infinity and beyond overnight you can still come back to something familiar every night. 

There will be something;  there's always something.  I've got Fridays.

27 November 2010

Trust me

So I nearly got conned.  If I hadn't already been broke I could have lost a lot of money.  Others did.  Dr Aaliyah is a real talent.  Smooth, persuasive, credible in short bursts.  She came up with what is in fact a really good idea - a training company focussed entirely on Arabs in general and Emiratis in particular.  There's a lot of focus here on Emiritisation and consequently there's a lot of money to be made.  And as yet not many exploiting the niche.

It doesn't take a lot of capital to start a small training company but it does take some.  There are licences to be acquired here and that means premises; there are staff to hire and marketing to be done.  You can start small and grow.

But the good doctor had 'plans' though it seems these plans never included paying for anything or anyone.  Suffice it to say that after some 4 months operation staff and contractors remain unpaid and licences un-obtained.  All of which is really sad because the sales team have secured business and are ready to run.

So the 'con'?  Look for investors, lots of small ones interested in being involved but not risking a big sum of money.  In this case she's discovered that AED250k or about $60k seems to bring a balance between being small enough for many people to risk and big enough to warrant the risks of being caught.  And it looks to me after a few months of being involved and two solid weeks of poking around where I should have poked long before that she's found around 6 or 7 suckers to stump up the money, sometimes in cash and always with nothing more than a signed document.  No official stamps, no registrations at the Dubai government, no basic due diligence by anyone.  It's The Producers translated to the desert except it's not funny.

Temptation and greed are odd things in that they overcome the most rational of people who don't want to see what's plainly visible.  A promise from a convincing speaker of your money back in a year and profits of 25% plus is close to being believable if you mentally squint. And when she included 25% of the equity it sealed the deal - several times.  Of course her 75% and 6 lots of 25% represents a mathematical problem in the real world.  But not if you slip in a decimal point on the documents - after the fact.

To the learning points then and it's a really simple set; one some Mr Madoff's victims should have considered too:

-  If it seems too good to be true then it probably is too good to be true
- Trust nothing, check everything; twice
- Everybody lies

Business is no place for *blind* faith.   Leave that for church.

15 November 2010

Pirates

I just finished reading The Pyrates - by George Macdonald Fraser, Hollywood stalwart and creator of the wonderful Flashman books based on the caddish character from Tom Brown's Schooldays.  It's funny and clever and thoroughly entertaining.  Everything a good pirate book or movie should be.  Errol Flynn would have been totally at home as indeed would the Dread Pirate Roberts.

Then this morning I read in the papers about Rachel And Paul Chandler who've been held for a little over a year by Somali pirates and saw their gaunt and strained looking photos.  And it made me realise what an odd species we are.

We find boat thieves exciting and dashing.  Big time criminals  - Bonnie and Clyde, Capone, any number of Russian oligarchs, the American Robber Barons of the 19th & early 20th centuries - become heroes and the subject of movies not far short of a hagiography.

But when was the last time you went to a movie about the loveable and amusing social security cheat who held down a below minimum wage cash only job and claimed unemployment benefit at the same time.  To feed her kids and keep a roof over their heads?  Or the illegal housemaid working a 15 hour day seven days a week in order to send cash home and support the family.  I have seen government sponsored advertisements urging me to rat them out though.

But I don't remember seeing any government supported advertising on how we're going to rid the seas of the pirates.  Though I did see a very lighthearted story today about Max Hardberger a man who makes his living repossessing stolen vessels from the pirates.  And mostly not glamorous armed cutthroats either but much more often from the clutches of crooked officials and shady brokers.

What I didn't read about though was the hardship caused to the crews and the ship owners whose ships are stolen.  The story was more about the thrill of the chase.

I realise I'm just an aging hippy buddhist with a soft spot for the underdog.  But I don't care.  That's where everyone's feeling should lie.

The name says it all "cutthroat" is not a cool epithet.  It's a blood stained job description and we should not forget that. Ever.

08 November 2010

Travelling light

I'm doing some pro bono work for a thing called the Emirates Travellers' Festival.  The ETs are a group of youngish Emiratis who travel the world by Land Cruiser mostly, going to difficult and interesting places and educating people about the UAE and Arab and Muslim culture and doing occasional good works.  And learning and learning and learning along the way.

And now these guys are working on setting up a Festival to be a celebration of Travelling - for whatever reason be it thrill seeking or charitable works or education or some combination.  It's to be a chance for people from all over the world to share and enjoy.

Today I was interviewing Sheikh Awad about this.  He's the driving force behind both the Emirates Travellers themselves and the Festival though he's got himself a veritable army of helpers and advisors. 

He's a genuine enthusiast.  He did a piece to camera, impromptu, in Arabic and English extolling the virtues to be gained from meeting different cultures and seeing different places.  It came from the heart and just drips with the enthusiasm and joy you can see in his eyes.

But what comes across so strongly in conversation is how much he wants to share these experiences and the learnings.  It's all been wholly positive.  Now, he mentions in passing that some places were difficult and risky but I'm made to swear I won't mention which places.  Not from fear on his part but from a desire not to put anyone off from trying if they want to.

And I also come across a trait I see in too few people here - expat or otherwise.  He must have told me a dozen times in the conversation that we have to make careful plans but in the end we have to "...just try it...get started and get on..."  He's happy to pull it together and dot i's and cross t's but just keen to get on. "Take a few risks; not stupid ones but some or you'll get nowhere".  It's nearly a mantra.

I've also been teaching business people about Entrereneurialism and that sums it up perfectly.  The managers I've been working with often understand intellectually but over here the culture is not one of taking risk.  Remember most of our workforce is expatriate and if they cross their bosses they can be fired and sent home at pretty much a moments notice.  That fear engenders neither any climate of risk taking nor does it make providing real customer focussed service possible.  Because staff are more frightened of the boss than they are concerned for the customer.  After all the customer can't have them deported.

This produces a badly skewed work culture where intelligent people will not challenge patently foolish instructions, where filling in the appropriate chit is more important than problem solving and where even the smallest risk is avoided because of the potential for disproportionate punishment.

It's REALLY holding back our development.  Somehow we have to remove the fear and replace it with pride.  A revision of visa rules might be all that's needed to get things rolling.  Perhaps coupled with the carrot of possible permanent residence if not citizenship for those who show the most commitment.

28 October 2010

Heading to ...well to what?

I have realised this week that although I am very good at what I do for a living I don't really like it any more.  I've been an entrepreneur and consultant for so long that I had really stopped thinking about it.  But I have realised - finally - that the reason I have found it so hard to get work in the last year has nothing to do with the economy.  It has everything to do with not having fun anymore.

Those who know me well know how hard I can work and how much energy I will put into something interesting.  They also know how little I will do if bored.  It's not laziness - though it can look like that to a third party.  It is simply that the energy required to do the crap is greater than any financial or emotional reward coming back.

What brought on this bout of existential doubt was my involvement in a project to start a training company.  The core concept is interesting.  To train young Emiratis in the real skills they need to make a success in the business world outside of the very sheltered public sector.

But the reality is less interesting because to get set up involves dealing with a vast bureaucratic labyrinth and an even vaster cultural divide coupled with a need to do much more trivial and pragmatic deals just to get enough cash to survive.  It involves begging for funding and doing deals with people I don't really like or approve of.  It involves letting someone else, again, have control of my destiny.

And I'm fed up both with the bureaucracy and the permanent lack of cash in start-up situations.  I'm fed up with scrabbling for every penny just to survive another day and I'm fed up with never having to deal with the problems associated with successful businesses. 

So I'm going to start looking for a business that I can run, hands on on a daily basis, that has some major element of hospitqality involved and is already doing ok.  And I'm going to make it do well!  No more rescues, no more start ups and no more dodgy 'partner' driven deals.  Buy something and make it better.

I want a small boutique hotel in Sri Lanka or Costa Rica.  Ideas?  Connections?

21 October 2010

Devils and details

I've been working with a client in Egypt on getting his new website up and running.  He's a delight to work with.  Knows what he wants to achieve and is able clearly to articulate his thoughts in both Arabic and English.  And then he leaves us to get on with it and produce without fiddling about and interfering at every step. 

Because he knows what he wants and has let us get on with making it the elapsed time has been minimal and the site works both technically and aesthetically.  There were few bugs in the code that were removed in the testing phase and it works exactly as designed.  And it hasn't had one edit since the specification was put together.  It's was done on time and in budget and we made a nice profit.

Today however I have to work with my client in Saudia.  He's a lovely man, pious, urbane, intelligent, funny, kind, rich but totally and ineffably disorganised when it comes to his website. 

So it's been four months in the making so far and we're on the third iteration.  Everyday he comes back with new thoughts and ideas and directions.  Some are great and some are crap and almost every one means substantial reworking of the whole thing.  It's expensive and time consuming and errors are creeping in.  It's hard to keep track of photos, for example, and text doesn't always match the pictures that go with it.  Bits get left out.  Silly errors abound.  HE made a mistake in his contact address and WE put it in the wrong place.  The colours no longer go well together and the underlying code is becoming buggy for no easily definable reason.

But most importantly for him and us the economics are now screwed.  Initially we tried to stay within the fixed price we quoted but eventually that was unsustainable.  Now we bill for every twitch and tweak.  So far it's cost him four times what the Egyptian site cost and in scale and function it is pretty much identical.  Moreover, because we can't find it in our heart to bill every second or indeed time in our schedules to record every second for billing, we will make a loss on the deal.

A good website is made up from myriad details and a few big picture guiding principles.  If you can take the time to think them through before starting you'll get a better site.  If you remember that you hired us to design and build your site because you can't do it yourself economically then let us build it.  Don't try to remote control us.  And if you don't know what you really want either in terms of aesthetics or functionality then say so up front.  We have ways of helping you figure it out before you commit lots of money and resource into a black hole.  Then let us get on with it.

Your website is going to be an important marketing tool.  Make sure it is conveying the message that you want it to.

16 October 2010

Jobs...

...today I was offered a nice job.  Salary & benefits, fancy title, nice office, nice staff.  But once again I've turned it down.  Trouble is it's one of those jobs I can do with my eyes closed and right now the Chairman is a friend.  How's he going to feel in six months when I'm bored and argumentative, refusing to work a full five day week till there's more to do?  He'll be pissed off is how he'll feel and I'll lose a good friend.  For money.

And though I need the money, Heaven knows, I think his friendship and occasional ongoing patronage as a client is worth more.  At least till the bills become insurmountable.

The trouble here is that it's hard to be a freelance in UAE.  There's no culture of paying for time or temporary project work by outside individuals.  You hire a company or you hire a staff member.  And it's only very recently that one can get a visa for what amounts to  freelance worker.  Till recently your only choice was to go on someone's payroll short term or go on their visa and lie.  Both of which happen all the time but the law is cracking down more often every week.  I don't fancy the jails here but worse is the subsequent deportation you risk.

So my plan now is to wait for a decent contract to come my way, clear my mounting debts and buy a freelance visa. 

Or find a difficult and challenging job.  Where the owners will give me time to learn and to do quality work.  Not hustle hustle and accept shoddy or half thought through stuff.  Been there - that's worse than the scenario we started with here!

13 October 2010

Cool service...

I like to sit and work in the cafe in my apartment building.  It's spacious and fairly quiet.  There's some rather ghastly muzak of course and these tiny somewhat annoying tv's blinking in the background.  But all in all it's not too shabby.

I like Turkish coffee but I don't like it strong.  I usually have 1/2 the amount of coffee that they would normally use in each ibrik.  The other day chef was there instead of the usual waitress and he suggested same amount of coffee and twice as much water.  This is perfect for me.  Lasts me longer  and tastes just great.  And means one coffee lasts me per session of working in the cafe instead of two coffees.  And they don't lose out on revenue because now I go sit there twice a day instead of once and sometimes I buy a croissant the second time. 

It's good customer service and makes up for the stupid tv and music in spades;-)

11 October 2010

The Customer is king? No it's the accounts department and Interior Designers.

I live in a serviced apartment.  Quite a nice one.  Bijou one might say but actually plenty big enough for the two of us who are avid couch potatoes.  Perhaps a couple of larger sofas to veg out on but that's all we'd need.  But we have a balcony of sorts, a big ole TV with many channels, internet, decent kitchen with all the appliances and a nice clean bathroom with a powerful shower.  And by local standards it's well priced.

The only thing the apartment really lacks is style.  It's furnished in some kind of nasty mass produced imitation of 19C English wood furniture  - too much of it really for the available space.  And the cheap prints on the walls are framed in even cheaper frames and hung crookedly;-)

The thing is there are 4 different kinds of decor in the building.  Two are ugly and two are ok to my eyes.  But they are all different.  And they are again all different from the decor in the public areas.

The property was only partially open when I moved in.  I was told the 'brand' for the property was to be modern Arabic - a dry hotel/apartment block where Muslims in general and Arabs in particular would feel at home and comfortable.  A theme of 'bayti-baytek' or 'mi casa es su casa' was envisaged. And no cliched camels and sand and tents.

But I guess some commercial imperatives got in the way.  As we've headed towards a proper opening a lot of the concept has fallen by the wayside in a rush to get the doors properly open.

Bayti - baytek?  I asked for some of the excess furniture to be taken out of my apartment so I can make better use of the limited space available.  I was told in no uncertain terms that Company Policy does not permit removal of furniture.  That's fair enough corporately but it's hardly allowing me to make it 'My Home" is it? 

We've just had the public areas in the lobby decorated in readiness for the public opening.  Furniture has been decked out quite nicely.  But in a fairly standard modern Indian style in the front lobby and a more old fashioned Arabic style in the back lounge.  In colours that are different from the other areas of the property and that clash with each other.  Sadly the front lobby looks like a furniture showroom display in its over the top detailing.  The One or Ikea would be very pleased.

And the rear lobby is set out for style rather than comfort.  Pre-opening the seating was arranged as pairs of sofas or chairs facing each other.  It was quite comfortable to sit and chat.  But now a lot of furniture has been removed and sofas are set out in L shapes with a coffee table.  It looks airy and spacious but it's uncomfortable to just sit and chat.  And as it's a 'dry' property you can't even sit and drink;-)

There is a vast gym that would make any Californian proud.  But it's so stuffed with equipment you can barely move - so it feels crowded and empty at the same time.

And so on and on...

The point being that it has all been laid out and set up piecemeal with no thought about either the theme or the actual users.  It's been strung together section by section by 'designers' and operations people to look nice and work as efficiently as possible.

In Branding terms its really backwards.  If you're creating a Brand you need to have in mind the effect you have on your customer.  What thoughts you want to engender and feelings you want to induce and what behaviours you want to encourage. 

You use the tools and techniques of Branding and Brand management to shape these thoughts, feelings and behaviours in line with your marketing plans and then sell to them.  You do it to make customers feel right with your product and maximise your profits. 

The colours, the graphics, the shapes, the way staff are trained, even the furniture and lighting are used to create the desired effect and keep it in people's memories.

If you do what my apartment/hotel has done you get something different.  You DO create a Brand but it's one over which you have no control.  People are buying into your product for reasons you don't expect. And in so doing you are certainly missing proit opportunities.  Possibly alienating some as well.

In our case instead of attracting Muslim and Arab travellers and families they are attracting international corporates because of the good pricing, 4* quality, convenient location, large scale which means large groups at short notice and good facilities for sports.  So...Western businesses find it a good place for temporary staff, longer term senior staff and convention groups. 

Who are then often disappointed because the TV in the rooms is focussed on Arabic visitors and there's no bar and few business services.  The staff can't, for example, call a guest on his mobile to inform of business visitors because they are not permitted to make overseas calls.  But Russian guests are likely to have Russian mobiles no?  Outside visitors (i.e guests' customers) find it hard to get past security to get to the car park and into the public areas of the property.  Good for keeping the family safe but not so good for commerce.

The wonderful large pool and deck is attractive to sunbathers.  So full of near naked men and women together.  Fine for me.  But not an attractive proposition to a conservative Saudi family on holiday.

The few local guests are bemused.  It looks odd - mix of generic Western Hotel, Indian Lobby and Arabic lounge area.  It's full of Europeans and Americans.  There's only international fare in the French named cafe or Asian food in the restaurant with a gimmicky English name.  The prayer room is tiny and hard to find.  There's no broadcast call to prayer.

Mixed messages abound and confused guests do NOT maximise their spending.  This is silly and unproductive.  And it's happening because the management is listening only to accountants and pushy shareholders who don't trust them to do the job they're paid to do.

Listen to the customers you want.  Make the Brand work for them and the accountants and shareholders will be a lot happier. 

In this case neither the proposed target group not the actual guests is being fully served by the Brand offering and so the profits are going to suffer.

10 October 2010

Go Pats...

I know it's Saturday but I live a long way from Boston and indeed from Miami which is where the Pats played the Dolphins last Monday.  And I don't get sent the recordings till later in the week.  But at least I'm getting them this year.

It was a remarkable game with the Pats getting a fine win after making plays from every piece of the playbook.  Blocked punts, interceptions, rushing, brilliant passes from Brady and the remarkable Woodhead hopefully receiving a well earned sizeable bonus.  And this from a team playing 14 newbies - rookies or second year players.  And a surprising number of those players NOT coming from the draft.

I think it's a remarkable testimony to the very special talent of Bill Bellichick.  He finds skills where others didn't.  And he makes a team pull together and shine as a team in double quick time.

While we were watching I mentioned to my wife that part of it was the team doesn't have divas or prima donnas among the players just a bunch of superstars.  "No," she said, "the TEAM is a Superstar and every one of them knows it."

And she's spot on.  The team is a discrete entity and IT is a Superstar.  It shows in their game.  Hell, Brady said in an interview that two weeks ago he didn't even know Woodhead's full name.  He does now and they look like they've been playing together for years.

Imagine if you took this skill and applied it to a business.  If Bill could come in and fill your company with the heroes no one else noticed, weld them into a team with a shared Vision and a willingness to give whatever it takes for the team to shine.

Most CEOs/MDs probably think they do this.  But they don't.  There are few companies that are as together as a single entity as the Pats at their peak.  But it's doable.  It's not even very complicated - just incredibly difficult.

Look at the skills people actually display.  Not the ones listed on the resume or suggested by the current job title.  See what they actually CAN do if give the space.  Then give them the space.  Reward people for individual excellence and reward them even more for group excellence.  Let 'em have fun.  Listen to everyone.  Draw firm boundaries but give them freedom within. Let them call most of their own plays under your tutelage.  Know that sometimes you do have to yell but mostly you don't.  Know that occasionally you have to punish but mostly you don't.  Know that sometimes you have to let people go but mostly you don't.

Always remember that journeymen have a valuable place and it is just as valuable in the long haul as a star QB.  But less visible.  Let 'em all go to Disneyland.  This year.

01 October 2010

Consiglieri

It looks like Scott and me are turning into commodities brokers.  Well I say Scott and me but he does all the hard stuff.  I do what I do.  I meet people.  I connect people.  I know people who know people.  I have ideas.  So does Scott...but then he gets on the phone and does his magic and suddenly those connections are talking to each other and ideas are becoming deals.

At the moment these ideas look like closing a deal on jet fuel, another on a bunch of oil tankers, some gold and some diamonds.  People keep offering us other stuff.  And we keep making connections.  It's a classic broker situation.

But better than that it's a celebration of teamwork.  None of these deals could have come about if any one of us in the cloud were absent.  Not only do we all bring different knowledge but we bring different skills and different attributes to the party.  An HR trainer would have a field day.  Belbin would have us under the microscope.  We're a jigsaw puzzle made flesh.

Hopefully we'll be a solvent one too soon:-)

http://www.belbin.com/rte.asp?id=8

First world veneer on a third world country

6 months ago we were living in a nice but basic apartment in the back streets of Ajman.  I rather liked it.  I'm not really a 5* kinda person and fortunately neither is Yvonne.  But we had no work and were struggling and ultimately failing to pay the rent.  Even after a lot of help from amazing friends.

So we had to stay with friends for a while.  And this was when we discovered we were not alone.  I have at least two other close friends in a similar position and they also knew people who also knew people.  The recession has bitten really deep here and affected every level of our society.

Things are improving and I have a little work now- somewhat irregular but it covers the modern basics. I have an apartment again in Dubai. A nice one thanks to a good client and some smart negotiation.

I'm a highly privileged white European.  Apart from the top tier Emitatis themselves - only about 20% of the population altogether and perhaps 20% of them in the top tier - we are the peak of local society with high salaries, fancy accommodation, good top level jobs in all manner of public and private enterprises.  We're incredibly lucky.

And we're suffering too.  Laid off; no jobs; facing eviction and facing deportation and in many many cases being jailed briefly for debt.  If you don't make the payments on the Porsche you can't declare bankruptcy;  you'll go to jail.

Imagine what it's like at the other end of the spectrum.

This week I read about a group of 30 odd Filipinas bought over as contract domestic staff.  Maids.  They live in a villa designed to hold a single family.  6 or 7 people max.  Their employer has shut up shop.  Gone broke.  Their bills in the villa have gone unpaid as have their salaries.  If there were any jobs they would not be allowed to take them.  They are cut off from utilities - no electricity means no air-conditioning or fridges or lighting or cooking; no water for drinking or bathing.  Sewage disposal is becoming  problem as is garbage.

It's still 40C plus outside in the day and 33C or more at night.  They sleep on the roof to try to get some relief from the stifling heat.  They survive on handouts from friends and strangers.  They can't even go home.  Their now vanished employer has their passports and how could they pay for the tickets their employer was contractually bound to provide normally? 

In some ways they are worse off than people in rural poverty in Africa or India or the Philipines.  Because they have no experience of living like this or any of the survival skills needed.  They are modern city dwellers returned to the stone age.

It is evil that this incredibly wealthy country that survives on the back of the indentured labour of people like these brave ladies will provide no help or support for the abandoned poor who are stuck because of the economic downturn that has me worrying if I can afford my internet connection and them worrying if they can get a drink of cold safe water.  I should celebrate my good fortune.  Instead I despair for their misfortune and help them out as best I can.  It's not enough.

Our government should be helping too.

It validates what I was told early on after I arrived here.  "Never forget, Martin." I was told by an old hand, "This is just another Third World country, but it's sheathed in a First World veneer".  He was right.

24 September 2010

Opportunity knocks

I got a mail today from a great friend in the UK who among others helped bail me out when things got really rough here.  You need the occasional reminder of just how cool your real friends really are.  And how much you owe them beyond just cash.

In replying to him though, I began to list the opportunities I have in the pipeline and I was rocked by how good it all looks compared to even a month ago and if looked at in the light of, say, last Xmas then it's a stunning advance.

I have some paying work.  Enough to keep the wolf from the door at least by the looks of it.

But more importantly there are deals in the pipeline that are real and solidifying fast.  If 20% come off then all my financial and legal problems go away.  If 10% come off I can eat and put a roof over my head for a year.

We're establishing a slew of new businesses - consulting and training oriented, trading and broking and even the manufacture of a simple product in Malaysia.  There's even an investment fund in there if we can get our act together.  If effort were a measure of success...well eat your heart out Bill Gates. 

We have a strange economy here in Dubai.  There's massive government interference in licencing and bureaucratic nonsense but little actual regulation.  It's a pretty much free market economy - largely unfettered capitalism.  If you don't make it as a business you fold.  If you owe people money you go to jail.  Generally - unless you're a local of course.  Or the Government who are the worst payers and biggest debtors...but that's a whole other issue.  The important thing though is the  activity in our local market reflects the world as a whole pretty much unfiltered.  And it's getting better.

New businesses are starting and old ones recovering.

Real estate and hospitality are still a mess and real estate in particular is probably in for worse yet.  Hotel rates are still falling but more slowly and peak season is kicking in.

Rents have a way to fall yet.  I'm glad I don't depend on rent from apartments for my living!  I have a friend whose current rental income doesn't equal the service charge from the developer - Nakheel, a government entity in deep shit who doesn't understand that screwing over the landlords is destructive to its long term survival.

Final assessment?  Recovering but government needs to respond more openly and stop protecting its collective arse.  Help the economy as a whole and you'll all benefit.

13 September 2010

Well...people are kinder than you expect.

And it shows in little things.  My phone ran out of credit while I was at the airport today and I couldn't buy any more till I got home.  But I did have free wi-fi.  So I whined about my running out to a friend by email.  And she promptly stuck some credit on my phone for me from a distance and demanded a call back cuz I sounded 'down';-)  Cool friend.

The staff at the hotel where I stayed recently greeted me one morning with a breakfast plate and asked me to try it before they offered it in the restaurant the next day.  Why?  Because they said if it was horrible I would tell them truthfully but not yell at them.  And if it was nice I would be appreciative;-)  Made my day.  It was good btw and will be on the menu from tomorrow.

08 September 2010

Eid brings on philosophy

I'm good at people though I don't like them very much.

I love the wilderness though I live in the city.

I'm fond of the ice but I crave the sun.

I make money though I am unable to keep it.

I don't believe in Gods but I admire their creations.
I've been working on a project to re-brand a hotel cum apartment block.  And it's been a disaster of total misunderstanding between the consultants and the clients.

So, to us the branding is a deep thing.  It represents everything the business stands for and it covers how people think, how they behave, how we approach the guests and residents, how we make decisions, what we do to make them feel good, how we decorate the building, what kind of restaurants we put in the building, what kind of uniforms we put the staff in, even the age and cultural mix of the staff, how we greet the guests, what we do differently for guests or residents, what words we use in our communication,s what colour we paint the walls, what kind of signage we use and where we put it and so on and so on through every detail of the operation and communication and interaction with staff and guests. 

It's a mix of psychology, semiotics, graphics and financial analysis.  It's where art meets behavioural science meets interior design meets accounting.

To the client it means a new logo and some new headed notepaper.

So to the client it's an exercise in quick and dirty graphic design.  We the consultants spend a great deal of time thinking and planning and looking at every detail.  One is fast and trivial.  The other is slow and complex.

There's a cultural difference too.  We've been concentrating on getting every detail right and setting into place processes to make sure it happens.  They've been going with the flow and mixing and matching and buying at the lowest possible price at every opportunity.  Value equals cheap.  Quality means cheapest.  Best means cheapest.

We've been talking 'Green' and 'Sustainable' and they've been buying polystyrene cups.

It's going to be a total train wreck.  And it will be our fault.  We're the consultant.  We're the professionals.  We should be able to find a way to get out ideas over to the client.  We knew for ages they were lying to us but we let it ride.  Now it's all going to come crashing down.

And who will suffer?

The Guests and residents.  That includes me:  I live there too.  Shame.

01 July 2010

Customer comes first?

We've had to engage with a solicitor in the UK of late.  This is no mean feat since we live in the UAE and have a 3 hour time difference as well as different local working hours.  So while our working day begins at 0730 here I can't speak to anyone in the solicitors' office before 1200. 

So this means if I want to get anything done I need to be able to work fast and in what amounts to 1/2 a day.  And of course Friday is a weekend here and Sunday a normal working day.  Not so in the UK.

You'd think they would understand.  It's not hard. 

So I wonder why they NEVER return calls.  Why they always disappear to lunch and leave no means of contacting.  Why they don't make files available at least for their assistant so someone can tell you what's happening.  Why they won't share their mobile number with anyone. I wonder in fact if they don't have their corporate head up their corporate fundament.  Or maybe they just hate me.

They are the ones who offered to do this work on a contingency basis; I didn't ask.  So they get nothing if they don't sort it out. 

And I sit here thousands of miles away fuming.  There's not a hope in hell I'll ever give them my company business now or point a client of mine at them.  In fact I'll tell anyone who'll listen ant every opportunity what I think of them and why they should be avoided.

Gaahhhh...they make me unfeasibly cross and all it would take is to return calls when they promise and perhaps once or twice be a little pro active and not wait for me to chase and hustle!

28 May 2010

Cultural differences or just inconsiderate...

It's Friday.  In the Muslim world that's the core day of rest when almost everyone is off work and many go to the mosque and spend the day with their families.  There's a lie in and no morning rush hour.

And yet for the last two Fridays the building site next door has chosen to begin work at 0530 as it is just getting light and has also chosen to concentrate on installing the air-con ducts.  Which means steel saws, grinders and hammering on the ductwork.  Some of the loudest and most penetrating noises on site at anytime.

Now there are real cultural differences between Western Europe and over here - even in the realm of noise.  Apart from anything else people simply talk more loudly.  And use of the horn in the car - which admittedly given the driving quality is very necessary - is hardwired in the brain and surfaces at very odd times.  Including at the local shops and cafes where it is the accepted signal for staff to come outside and serve you in the car. No one leaves the comfort of their air conditioned car if they don't REALLY have to.

But steel saws, grinders and hammering at 0530 on a Friday?  That's plain inconsiderate.  And illegal - but complaining is hard and by the time you reach some sort of agreement with someone who can do something about it the moment has passed.  For half an hour.

Still the cafe next door has some advantages beyond fine tea.  Today a local police traffic patrol pulled in for their early morning break.  And the grinders started up on the building site.  Just as the cops were setlting down for their tea break.

The sergeant was not happy.  Words were exchanged (and paperwork) with the site foreman.  The grinding has stopped and the truck from the air-con company has left the site.  Ahhh...peace.  It's 0645 now.  I'm going back to bed for some more zzzzz's.  Let's hope my snoring doesn't disturb the next patrol.

21 May 2010

A message from Him/Her/It

If - and it's a big IF - I were the supreme Deity there'd be a few guidelines and a (VERY) few rules:

Rules:
1  Do nothing in my name unless you have a solid gold tablet in triplicate with my signature on it and countersigned by at least two other supreme deities from other parallel universes.  And generally not even then.  If fact... probably for the best just to do NOTHING in my name ever.  I'm cool with that.

2 Do not deliberately hurt people or kill them.

3 If you're of the carnivore persuasion you can eat to survive.  But no killing or hurting animal life for fun or sport.

4 Be prepared for smiting  if I find Rule 1 being ignored.

Guidelines:

I'm omnipotent and omniscient.  There is no contradiction here because I say so.  OK?  So no half arsed philosophising on how that works.  It just does.

I do not need your protection.  If people are rude to me and I'm pissed off I'll smite them myself.  You are not required to do it for me.  See rule two above for further guidance.

Actually I rather like dissent.  It suggests you've been thinking even if you turn out to be wrong.  It's why I gave you both Free Will and Brains.

Speaking of Free Will...if bad things happen it's either because you screwed up or because stuff happens in a self-organising universe like the way I designed it.  It does not mean you're evil/bad or that I'm displeased.  You should feel sad and probably annoyed.  But do whatever you can to make it better.  Or don't.  Your choice.

I have commanded no particular actions and demand nothing of you beyond Rules 1-4 above.  Everything is down to Free Will - including ignoring the Rules if you want to.

Some of the Churches from places like the the Middle East have rules about what you can eat and what you can't.  These made some sense when you were nomads living in the desert with little water and no technology.  Shrimp goes off real quick in the heat and pork is a bugger if you don't cook it properly.  but these days...well just use the fridge and wash your hands carefully and heat things up properly.  You'll be fine.

Btw on the subject of food.   Macdonalds is nothing to do with me.  You did that to yourselves though I've no idea why.  Which is hard; on account of my being omniscient...

I quite like other religions but I really do not like Churches.  If you were to use that big brain and the Free Will thing you might seriously consider disbanding all the churches and distributing their wealth to good causes.

If you must have Churches and priests and stuff for goodness sake let 'em marry and live lives like normal people.  After all that's what they are.  They don't deserve any particular reverence  but they don't deserve any particular harshness either. 

And invest in heating/air-conditioning for churches and padding for the seats.  A lot of people who like to go to churches are old or frail or poor and deserve a bit of comfort. 

And while we're on the subject of Churches...I don't have a dress code or any desire to have you mutilate yourselves for me.  See Rule 1 above.

Go check out Wikipedia - that's a really cool human invention; way to go Free Will and Big Brain - and read about the Flying Spaghetti Monster.  And check out the "I'd Really Rather You Didn'ts"  They work well for anything I've missed.

Bill & Ted's Movies had it down pretty well to.  I never understood why they didn't do better.  "Be Excellent to each other" pretty much covers it.

Toodles//G

02 May 2010

On cold air and clean transport

Summer's coming.  It's 0100hrs and 32C here.  It hit 41C earlier today.  Though the humidity hasn't kicked in yet so it's bearable still.

But you can feel people slowing down.  It really does drain it out of you and you lose all inclination to move at all if possible.  Or, you turn up the aircon in the apartment or office or car and live in a cold cocoon.

I was pondering this because I recently saw a demo of an air-powered car.  A neat new design using multiple cylinders so that compressed air powers the first cylinder but is still somewhat compressed so it is shunted to a second and then again a third to extract the maximum power per shot of compressed air.

And what comes out the other end?  Icy cold air - in this case at -10C.  But that's all.  Then when it ran low on fuel it stopped at a local gas station and refilled the tanks  - at least with enough to get the car back to base where it would receive a safe full fill from it's very own compressor in the garage.

100km on a single charge in two smallish SCUBA sized tanks and pennies in electricity needed to refill.  It's by no means a panacea.  Electricity needs to be made somewhere but it is cleaner by far than battery power - no heavy metals or nasty mining waste or transporting iffy materials round the world to build the tanks and compressors - and cheaper to maintain.  I've got a compressor in my garage at home in the UK that's not much off 100 yeas old.  Not many batteries last that long...

I hope we can raise some investment to go to the next phase.  This is a great idea that has huge potential if fully developed.  Got a whizzy new and extra efficient compressor design using similar concepts to launch too.

28 April 2010

Sometimes a salary looks good...

When I first came to the UAE I was strictly speaking, a salaried employee but my status and security were such that I might just as well have been a contractor.  Gone on a whim and at a moment's notice with no comeback.  Our labour laws here make employed expats little more than indentured servants and most would in fact be better off on freelance contracts - except the local laws make that hard and the business culture doesn't understand paying for time.

I've been back freelancing for two and a half years now.  It's much tougher than in Europe and I'm barely making a long term living.  I had one serious contract from a British client but the work for locals has been unsatisfying to say the least.

We have no insolvency laws here but we do have very strict laws about getting into debt and passing bad cheques.  You will go to prison.  And since the recession many have.  So how is it clients continually get away with incredibly slow payments and invariably never paying you in full?  Government and official organisations are the worst of all delaying for a year or more and then short paying.  You have no practical comeback.  So you build it into the price and take a lot of your money upfront.  Of course that makes it harder to get work.  And puts prices up since you need to allow for the costs of collections in your price.

But then what's the point of doing work and not getting paid? And no one seems ashamed.  It's near universal.

It wasn't always thus.  It seems wealth has made the current generation of local business people not just more stand offish but more arrogant and self centred.  Perhaps that's the penalty for being in a tiny minority in your own country.

If so it is even more important to look to a future not so dependent on cheap imported labour.  Time to embrace technology; a hard work ethic; a willingness to build and not expect to start at the top; and adopt a culture of learning not using.

25 April 2010

Communications

I have always thought of myself as a professional communicator.  I'm good at it and I'm good at people.

And yet I keep getting it wrong.

Today I've been working with one of my business partners on a document we're preparing for a potential big new client.  I was totally sure we had agreed on the process after some back and forth commentary by mail and by phone.

But when it came to doing the work we were off down different tracks like scared bunnies.

Now we're friends as well as business partners so it doesn't cause real friction - more self mocking on my part and knuckling down to it on his and the end result is better for it.

The thing is ...we're professionals, trained and experienced.  Yet we make communication errors like this everyday.  How much harder is it for non-professionals who have to make communications work just as much?  Without our toolbag.

It really brought home to me today how much skill is involved in good management and how rarely I give people credit for that. 

Sorry.

24 April 2010

The miseries or despair?

It's pretty miserable here at the moment.  I'm 58 years old and I used to be quite well off.  But as so many entrepreneurs have found out I didn't have a big enough bankroll to take the hits.

And after 7 years of struggling and juggling we hit the bottom.  Broke and currently about to be homeless again, debts to family and friends and the next job several months away still. And today I'm really down - though possibly a little more buoyant than my wife who has had to deal with a lot of the rubbish and who didn't cause most of it.

I have a case of the "Miseries"

But as yet I'm not in despair.  I'm not hungry or thirsty - though I have lost weight cuz I've been in no position to splurge of late.  I will have a roof again in a day or two courtesy of friends, again, and there is a project in the pipeline.  There is no reason to despair.  And like so many entrepreneurs before me we will begin to climb out of the hole soon.  My wife hasn't abandoned me nor even suggested the possibility - she seems to believe in my ability to dig us out.  She is managing to cope with the slings and arrows with equanimity though she's patently very worried.

But to my point.  There are many who don't get the difference between being broke, as we are, and being poor as are so many in the world and we are not.  There are possibilities for us and with a little patience and some luck we'll be OK.  We're NOT going to die from dehydration or from something nasty in the only available water supply.  We are not going to starve anytime soon.  We won't die from some horrible disease or from the want of a few coppers worth of medicine.  Hell, we probably won't even lose access to the Internet!

So... a brief bout of feeling sorry for myself is OK on a bad day.  But despair is so far from the table I can't even get a focus on the MIGHT be's.  Thank goodness for the future.

23 April 2010

So I use LinkedIn the business oriented social network a lot.  It's proven useful for making interesting contacts especially as when I first became a freelance over here I had only a minuscule network of my own. 

And I also play extensively on the Q&A section.  It's often fun, frequently annoying and occasionally downright silly.

I have noticed as have many other regular contributors that about the commonest question posed is from people who have accidentally made themselves 2 or more accounts which aside from being against the rules is a PitA to manage.  But it happens because of LinkedIn's design of the process to accept invitations from other members to link up - the core point of the service.

However because you can invite anyone to join using any of their myriad email addresses it is common that an existing member is invited to link by someone using an email address different from the one you used to join.  And if you are NOT incredibly careful and don't read every line of every screen carefully (yeah like that's going to happen!) you will end up making a new account when you've already got a perfectly good one.  And LinkedIn doesn't provide a way for a member to merge 2 accounts because it assumes you followed the rules and haven't got 2 accounts!

This is such a wonderful example in miniature of a problem so many businesses face.  They swear they are customer focused (because, genuinely, they care about the customer being satisfied) but all their processes and procedures start from an inward facing company point of view and are then imposed on customers as the 'rules' so if it goes wrong it is now the customer's own fault!

LinkedIn is just one I happen to know as I use it a lot but you can see it everywhere.  Government bureaucracies are a classic.  Designed to satisfy internal needs and imposed on customers.  But then spend millions on peripheral systems and processes to make the customer feel loved and wanted anyway.

It's madness.

The starting point should be something like "How do we design our processes and procedures so they are easy for the customer, have minimal risk of human error AND work for us?". 

Whereas what actually happens too often is "We'll make the customer to do things our way and shower him/her with love and affection and try to convince them it's for their own good".

It's madness.

22 April 2010

The Niqab, the Lungi and the Prophet

I have read a number of disturbing clothing and tolerance related stories of late.

In Sharjah they have banned men from wearing a lungi in public. It was deemed 'women's' clothing and un-Islamic. There's an awful lot of people in Yemen, Oman and all over the Indian sub-continent who would most certainly beg to differ.

Men are now being rounded up for wearing jewellery and specifically neck chains. That means I too am under threat because I wear my wedding ring on a thong round my neck since it became worn and sharp on my finger.

I read that Belgium like France is considering banning the Burqa and Niqab, indeed all coverings that hide the face. Muslim groups are up in arms about religious tolerance.

How is this different from Sharjah's actions?

South Park is taking flak for portraying Prophet Mohammed in a bear suit. Threats have been made.

I saw an awful cartoon of caricature Jews conspiring with the Pope and President Obama in a newspaper recently over here in the Gulf. No howls of hurt outrage from anyone...

There's something wrong in the world. Reality has been twisted to remove common sense.

For the record I am sitting at home wearing my lungi and a Patriots T-shirt from the last time they won the Superbowl. My wife is in jeans and T-shirt. Is she a cross dresser?

The muezzin is calling outside. There's a lively Bollywood movie on the box right now. My pizza is on its way from the shop. This is more like it!

Bleeagh...people can be disgusting

Litter
UAE is a rich country. That’s not to deny there are poor people but on the whole it’s a rich place. We have nice cities, nice spaces both publicly and privately, Our new buildings are positively smart with marble floors and fancy decoration, lots of glass and chrome and shiny bright jingly bits that add a glitzy opulence to even a pretty run of the mill apartment block.
In public areas we have lots of block pathways that are kept up by an army of low paid but willing municipal workers.
It’s nice.
So why do people throw litter everywhere? It’s not as if there are no bins. There are litter bins all over in public areas and the back streets and alleys teem with dumpsters. Even the motorways have dumpsters and bins by the illegal truck stops!
Yet I watch people throw litter all the time.
There’s a house next to the apartments where I live. I one story local place inhabited by young Sri Lankan men; eight or nine of them perhaps more. Until a week ago there was a huge sandpile next to their building from the construction site opposite. Then it was cleared by the builders. Where the pile was is now an unofficial parking lot.
In one week by the outside of the wall of the house a pile of litter has appeared. Rubbish sacks, plastic cups, packaging, peelings. I wondered. But yesterday as I was leaving to fetch my car and walking across the parking lot I was nearly hit by a rubbish sack sailing over the wall from the house. Closely followed by a Styrofoam cup. Words were exchange but mostly all I got was the annoying passive shoulder shrug of someone who doesn’t understand and doesn’t give a toss. When I got home I found some garbage sacks and cleared the pile. Put the sacks in the dumpster on the other side of the house.
This morning there are more bags and cans and cups.
There’s a cafeteria opposite our building. This is a local phenomenon that you used to get all over UAE but is not allowed anymore in Dubai and Sharjah. Te cafeteria has no tables or eating space yet neither is it a takeaway. You pull up in your car and honk your horn (don’t get me started on that one!). Eventually a waiter staggers out and brings you a tea and takes any other order you may have. Water and cigarettes are common. Then you sit in your car and drink your tea and perhaps eat a shawarma sandwich and leave. But before you leave you drop your cup and sandwich wrappings and the cellophane from your cigarettes on the ground. Occasionally the waiter comes and picks up some of the litter. Never all of it and often none. The leavings pile up for a few weeks and sometimes the council will send a team in to do a sweep through. There’s a dumpster for the cafeteria. I often watch the staff throw things at it and miss. They never pick it up. The council empties the dumpster every couple of days. They are not responsible for the rotting pile on the ground. The cafeteria only clears it when it gets too smelly.
I watch kids and their parents eat a burger from one of the fast food joints around here. I watch them all throw the case and paper wraps on the ground and walk away. I watch people buy cigarettes and throw the wrappers on the ground before getting in their car. I watch people throw tea bags out of car window while they’re parked followed later by the cup. I watch kids throw empty cans away without a thought and I watch their parent do the same.
There is a total lack of pride in the environment. A ‘don’t care’ attitude that you might, just, forgive in an expat labourer who’s just passing through but seems bizarre in a well off Emirati family whose home this is.
I used to live in Sharjah near the Buhairah Corniche. This is an upmarket area on the creek full of smart tower blocks and shops and cafes. It also has a wide green running the length of the cornice where at weekends families come and picnic by the water.
If you visit just at dusk on a Friday you will be greeted by a sea of litter – paper, cans, plastic cups, bags, all sorts. People have their picnic and just leave the mess. Including uneaten foodstuffs. It is certainly not possible for others to follow where someone was before without a major clean up exercise, which never happens either. The council clears up overnight here. Very effectively in fact. But by mid morning the next day it’s all reappearing. More slowly than the weekend but just as inexorably.
There are plenty of litter bins by the way including recycling bins for glass, paper and cans. They are empty most of the time.
I am embarrassed for these people. This is not a third world hellhole with no money. These are well off people in nice surrounding. They have no dignity.

Cheapest is bestest?

Quality
What follows might stand as an example of how the UAE looks at quality generally and how people treat their public amenities.
About a year ago the local authorities in Ajman refurbished the beach area along the corniche. They put in a new pedestrian path, created a lot of free parking, installed benches to sit out on and fenced off a couple of dangerous areas with attractive new railings.
For a few weeks it looked very smart and very nice.
The first thing that happened was a couple of the benches began to break up and the problem was threefold – cheap, low grade, no maintenance.
The major problem was these benches are of the normal domestic kind that in the UK or US you might buy in a Garden Centre or DIY store. They are made of aluminium and wood.
Critically for this story they are designed to be in a private garden space with occasional gentle use by a proud family. They are not designed for constant use by tourists, kids, chaps hanging around watching the football, jumping on, eating picnics on for a family of six, having coffee poured over them, having fast food dropped on and ground in and never being maintained.
So now the paint has worn off, many slats are broken, some decorative swirls are snapped off and many benches have come loose from their moorings.
In short they are decorative but relatively fragile. Most importantly though they are cheap compared to the industrial version. And never given even the most basic of cleaning or maintenance.
So within months the promenade had broken down benches.
Then the railings started to go. These too are of a quality more suited to a private garden rather than a robust urban seaside environment. They are aluminium and covered in a single coat of domestic grade paint. They have unsafe and fragile protuberances many of which are now breaking off. And they are attached to the concrete or brick with small shallow fixings and non-stainless steel bolts. Right next to the ocean.
Many sections have not stayed fixed. Nor have they been re-fixed. This means that neighbouring sections are also now coming loose and the whole process is speeding up.
Entropy increases.
Because there is no maintenance the debris of broken benches and railings are left on the beach or the walkways. They are used to build paths from the promenade to the beach so people can avoid a 20-metre walk to the steps…
They attract litter – people are sloppy about littering here – which also doesn’t get cleaned up. Lately I’ve seen rats in the debris.
The odd thing to me is the city has the beach cleaned daily. I’ve mentioned littering above.
But troops of men come daily and fill sacks with rubbish so the beach remains as clean as any public beach can though they will leave behind the bigger debris. If – as happens surprisingly often – someone dumps an old car part or piece of furniture then that may stay for a month or more as will a sack of rubbish not filled by the council’s own workers. Residents would not dream of clearing something themselves.
I kinda understand why the low paid expat workers can’t be bothered. I’m totally bemused as to why the local Emiratis won’t do anything for themselves. They seem content to wallow in mess if it isn’t cleared for them.
So there you have it. If it looks ok on day one that’s good enough. If it falls apart quickly that’s good enough. If it’s dangerous but looks ok that’s good enough. If it’s barely functional but cheap it’s a good deal. If everything has to be replaced after 18 months that’s ok. They were cheap. That’s good enough.
Very depressing.

21 April 2010

Ajman

Today I live in Ajman. This is a small Emirate, North & East of Dubai and Sharjah and one of seven that makes up the UAE.
It’s a liberal place. Of course it’s a Muslim country and that’s more visibly true here than in Dubai but nonetheless alcohol is available legally to non-Muslims and there’s no conservative dress code. You see expats and tourists sunbathing on the beach in mixed sex groups without either embarrassment or harassment.
Mosques are visible, abundant and well used. The only problem is an escalation war with PA systems used when calling the faithful to prayer. Not every muezzin has the voice he thinks he has.
But how refreshing to see them full to overflowing on a Friday – despite the inconvenience caused by the rather selfish parking of those arriving by car.
Ajman doesn’t drip conspicuous wealth like Dubai but neither is it visibly poor. It has more than it’s share of flashy new high-rise developments and its own set of vanity development projects that have failed or gone on indefinite hold since the meltdown in 2009.
We have a pleasant corniche where development is still most certainly under way and this looks onto a nice if slightly run own public beach. White sands, clean and clean waters and no crowds make it a pleasant place to while away a few hours.
If I have a day of phoning or thinking I will spend it at the beach where I can catch a few rays and be productive without the need for an office.
I am still hoping that one the major developments along the corniche and beachside are finished there will be an improvement scheme for the beach itself, which is what the tourists will want. It’s short on facilities – changing rooms, showers, loos, concessions for refreshments, entertainment – and the physical environs do not match the quality of the new buildings nearby.
Away from the corniche and the main drag through the city the high-rises peter out very quickly. But you still find many homes in the city areas proper.
These are single storey flat roofed buildings built around a courtyard and with few windows. Dark and cool but often surprisingly spacious and much more comfortable on the inside than the drear and dilapidated outsides generally suggest, these are not typical traditional houses but a more modern reworking of the style. Most noticeable is the absence of the traditional wind tower and the presence of air conditioning units cheaply added and myriad satellite dishes targeted on programmes from home.
Many, perhaps most these days, are inhabited by groups of expat workers from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka and in Ajman, more so than I’ve seen elsewhere, young Africans. Of course, it’s mostly single men though you do find occasional groups of Filipinas banding together to share expenses and find some company. Few are paid enough to bring their families over and much of their income is sent home every month. It’s a hard life though given the numbers here it is obviously worth the sacrifice.
These cheap low rise buildings have gone from most of Dubai now. Replaced by more lucrative tower blocks or high rent villas, Dubai looks and feels totally different. In Ajman you know you are firmly in the Middle East but in Dubai you could be anywhere.
It is Dubai’s loss. I hope fervently that Ajman makes some different choices going forward. Now the economic bubble in Dubai has burst that may be an easier decision.
I would not want Ajman to become some kind of quaint theme park of the past. It deserves a full share of the benefits of the present and future the same as anyone else. But it could do that and hold on to its culture and charm in the process.
The Emirates are not democracies. Nor do they masquerade as such. Neither, though, are they authoritarian dictatorships as we have seen in Iraq or theocracies as we see in KSA or Iran. What we have in general are enlightened benevolent despots. As was Singapore under Lee Kwan Yu.
Dubai used that approach to make a different kind of city-state. In the process it made mistakes. But there’s no denying the fact that for a country that is mostly sand dune with little natural resource it has become a civilised and comfortable modern state with an incredibly high standard of living for some and a decent one for the rest. It has earned its place in the modern world in a stunningly short time.
Ajman can learn from Dubai. It can learn that it is ok to dream and create from nothing. It can learn that you don’t actually need vast oil reserves to become rich. It can learn that it doesn’t actually take very long to develop a small country with few people.
But it can also learn that you can go too far. It can learn that debts need to be serviced and that bubbles always burst. It can learn that to be totally dependent on cheap imported labour disenfranchises your own people and holds back full participation in the future. It can learn that holding on to your own culture has not just social but also economic value. It can learn that oftentimes it is better to pay more and have quality than just to buy the cheapest. It can learn that some resources are better used and developed than simply consumed. It can learn that people work harder and give more commitment if they have some emotional investment in the future.
Ajman in 10 years could be as comfortable as Dubai without the soullessness and culture loss and without the dependence on cheap foreign labour and without the unsupportable debt. It takes vision will and salesmanship. Sheikh Rashid had it in spades for Dubai and passed it on to his successors. I hope the younger generation of al Nuaimis in Ajman have it too. This could be special. I hope I can stay long enough to see it happen.

Ramblings on Dubai life

It is easy to stay only among your own kind – especially in Dubai. You don’t have to worry about language or funny food or strange music or exotic customs. Living in Dubai can be like living in London or LA if you want it to. Almost as expensive too. But if you do that you miss so much.
I’ve never lived in such a diverse society. For example in short order last year we celebrated Dewali, Eid and Xmas, 2 New Years and an Orthodox Xmas. You can be a beach bum one day and a desert explorer the next or ride a camel or trek the mountains. You can wallow in Islamic culture and live like an Indian Prince. You can talk to Iraqi and Palestinian refugees or chat to a LA Jewish film executive here to raise money.
You can work in a Western style International company like Cisco or Microsoft or a local like al Habtoor or al Futtaim or you can work for the semi government organisations like Nakheel or Dubai World. And they are all different experiences.
This is a harsh climate. Many of the wealthy locals and lots of Expats disappear for July & August. Business pretty much operates on minimum input.
Ditto during the holy month of Ramadan where because of the fasting people work 6 hour days and much more slowly.
In western terms you need to build for a nine month business plan.
Also our weekends do no co-incide. Across the region we are tending towards Friday and Saturday but it’s not universal. Thursday & Friday is still common. Remember this if you work in an international business. It can be frustrating.
People wonder about personal safety. Well…I rarely lock my car, often leave my computer on the back seat. I’ve never been mugged or burgled or accosted by faux beggars. Sometimes I don’t bother to lock my apartment before going out if it’s only for a short while. I daily entrust my car to valet parking whose drivers often hadn’t seen the inside of a car before they got here. We walk city central streets at night feeling unthreatened.
Iran is 100km away. Iraq is just up the coast. We border KSA. India and Pakistan are no distance. It’s a political hotbed. Since I’ve been here we’ve had no bombs or terrorist scares – well a couple of well publicized assassinations. When George Bush came to visit a while back we had an extra public holiday – because his security people wanted roads closed so the motorcade could go through easily.
So…changes. When I first came here 30 years ago the main road from Dubai to Abu Dhabi was 2 lanes and not paved all the way. Now it’s 14 lanes in many places and 10 in the rest!
Dubai ended pretty much at the Trade Centre and then it was desert all the way to Abu Dhabi. Now we have two and a bit Palms, the World, Dubai Waterfront, Jebel Ali FreeZone & Port and all the desert developments. We now have an outer and inner ring road/bypass as well as SZR.
Our metro is well on its way to completion and last year we bought 2000 busses – the biggest ever single order for busses anywhere.
Our population is currently around 1.3m and heading for 4m. Lord knows what they are all going to do though there’s be no shortage of places to live.
My early visits were to a charming but remote undeveloped country with huge potential. New Dubai is a World City – in the same league on the surface as NYC, London or Tokyo. But not far under the surface is still the third world desert country that I still love but is fading into memory rapidly.
My four years here have been like 10 in Europe – some good some bad but all un-missable.

20 April 2010

Dealing with change

Been looking at a discussion group of change and project managers and the bit that has taken my interest has been on the management of a Turnaround compared to a Planned Change scenario.

There was some unpleasantness for a while especially as the Turnaround specialists got heavy and the Change Management professionals got protective of the people but it settled down in the end.

What got through to me though was how when it comes down to it the 'people' really are the core whatever the situation. A company is just an agglomeration of people working a bunch of processes as best they can. Ideally it will be a self-organising agglomeration but often it isn't. And in a turnaround less so than ever.

Let's face it - it will often be the self-organising that got us in the mess in the first place. Eye off the ball, no shared view of the outcome, too much focus on the current processes etc.

The thing is, with a company is there's entropy to deal with. And entropy increases. Without the addition of energy often from the change management experts or turnaround manager if more fierceness is needed the system's entropy continues to increase. Till it grinds to a halt.

People are in many ways just intelligent machines. And they will continued doing what they do till the 'control' makes them do something else. Now we're dealing with inertia.

And while people may hate the idea of being like a machine - well... examine your soul and tell me about the last time you changed the way you do something without some kind of stimulus from outside...

I wish I'd thought more about...

Advice for people following us? Ok the big thing is despite the surface glamour and glitz never forget that this is still a third world country and stuff does not work quite like it does in the UK. Workmanship is shoddy and everything – and I mean everything - is done to the lowest price. Quality is not valued. Businesses will rather save AED100 cost than spend 1,000 to make 1,000,000.
Most of the people you are in contact with every day are paid peanuts and managed harshly. Do not be surprised if you don’t get a lot of co-operation.
Everyone speaks English but very few as their native language. This means you have to learn to speak slowly and clearly and be prepared to repeat yourself often and to live with daily mis-communication. What also hurts us English is the fact that our accents are hard to understand. English is mostly heard and taught as Indian English. Even Emiratis often speak an English that is heavily Indian tinged. Get used to it and don’t be rude about what to us are quaint foreign mannerisms. You try communicating in Arabic! Not many foreigners can. Indeed some local children are so used to speaking English that they continue to do so among themselves and occasionally need remedial Arabic lessons to take up government jobs.
Contracts and paperwork are valued. You can never have enough copies of you passport, visa and photograph.
Emiratis don’t do trivial jobs. Even the lowliest Emirati fresh graduate is a Manager of some kind. Expect work to be passed over to someone else. Expect to have to chase everything.
Our approach to time here is different. Things take as long as they take. This doesn’t mean people don’t hustle – it’s just that no one rushes to respond.
Learn the 40 different meanings of the word “Yes” – ½ of which mean some form of ‘No”. Neither Arabs nor Indians like to give bad news or say no to you. So they will find a thousand ways to avoid negative response or bad news. Learn to read the clues.
Arabs in particular value politeness and hospitality, which is very pleasant socially. But it drives Western business people crazy. Countless sales people from Europe have been stunned at how easy it is to get to see the Chairman of very big companies and then wondered for months why business never went anywhere. It’s because they didn’t separate social hospitality from real business need.

Volcanic ash = free vacation

I have several friends and at least one relative stuck in exotic places and currently unable to return by plane to the UK.

I have to say that after a 10 day business trip to Shanghai, Taipei and Hong Kong I would NOT find it hard to chill for a few days on the company's dime in a 5* hotel in HK. A short unexpected extra vacation albeit without the family does not strike me as a major hardship. I could be a tourist.

I have more sympathy with my self-employed friends stuck in alRiyadh and Jeddah in KSA though. Not only are they losing fees but they're not even able to go down to the bar and get thoroughly sloshed. Bugger! But at least I assume the insurance will cover any additional costs though it won't replace the fees. But again, if the clients back home are reasonable they'll understand and reschedule. After all they've probably got people of their own in the same boat.

Some years ago I went to a company conference in Silicon Valley. It finished on Thursday and the following Tuesday I was, with a coupe of my staff, scheduled to attend a meeting in SF. We were offered a choice of going home and flying out again on Monday or staying over. My colleagues all went home. I stayed over. Company was paying for a hotel and a rental car. And I got me a free 4 day vacation in Death Valley and a side trip to Vegas. Made me realise there are SOME benefits to being an employee, sometimes.

And no I am not insensitive to the needs of the less fortunate travellers. I know some tour groups are stuck in airports and that some individuals can't really afford to chill out in a 5* hotel at company expense.

But surely all the more reason for those who can to enjoy their good fortune.

I am...

...a professional consultant; and a damned good one at that. I've also had a lot of executive experience, mostly as an interim and almost always in difficult situations where existing Executives could not or, often, would not cut it.
And yet sometimes I hesitate to tell people what I do. I know many have a mind view of a consultant that is sleazy, grasping and of someone who won't take responsibility or do anything useful. So I bluster and discuss my 'other' career as an interim manager.
But they do go together.
As a consultant I am clear on my role. I give advice based on experience and research; general research and client specific research. This research will be based on desk- and book- work, examination of financials, interviews with stakeholders of all stripes and possibly things like polls, surveys and focus groups depending on the situation. There will be analysis of the financial results as well as scenarios run. There will be competitors and other consultants consulted. And so on.
What pops out the other end of all this is advice. Not implementation, though part of the advice may be on how to do the implementation.
That advice may include options or it may be a definitive statement. “Do X, Y & Z because…”
And I’ll write one of those widely derided reports. It will be thick; it will contain an Executive Summary; it will contain appendices. Why do I do this when we all know no one ever reads them?
Well to start with it’s not true that they are never read. In general they are read widely among the target audience and digested. I almost always give a live presentation to a group and often several groups, of my findings in which the audience can grill me to their hearts’ content over my findings and recommendations. My sponsors spend time mulling it all over among themselves and away from me.
Also it is often the only visible record of my presence and a necessary part of the process of getting paid because I’m doing this for money. Frequently lots of money and I’m keen to get paid. Nothing to be ashamed of.
And why then is there no implementation? Simply, because that’s not where I add value as a consultant. Very capable managers exist in my client companies perfectly capable as a rule of implementing a plan and recommendations. My skill is in looking at things both dispassionately and creatively, in analysis and synthesis. It is in seeing through the crap to what makes a difference and then persuading others to make it happen. It is a rare and valuable skill and I’m pleased to have it.
I am not ashamed to be a consultant. I am not going to make excuses for not implementing stuff. I don’t need to!

19 April 2010

Sharjah Again

I met a friend and colleague today at the Qanat al Qasbah in Sharjah.  That in itself was only the second time I've had that happen in over 4 years living here.  Every other time I've had to go to Dubai.  People are just scared of it or bemused by it.  Many Euro-Expats have never even been there as tourists.  And it's only 20km centre to centre.
And ohhh it was nice to go back.  It feels like home.  And it's been a while since I felt that.  Staff in the cafe and in the ice cream shop came out and asked after us - asked after Yvonne really since they rarely ask after me ;-)
It's a bad rap really.  Sharjah is a civilised place.  Modern city, malls, beaches, motorways, traffic jams, tower blocks and all the rest.  But it's also got history.  More museums than Dubai for everything from Islamic Art to vintage cars. There's an aquarium every bit as good as the one in Dubai Mall but cheaper and quieter.
The corniche is broad and lets out onto the very white sands - coral I imagine - of a clean and large and uncrowded beach.  Tropical fish to nibble on your toes abound.
The  dhow wharf is very active with new and old boats.  Trade goods coming in and out all the time.  Not a pallet in sight though there are no donkeys or camels as there were when I first came here over 30 years ago.  And so different from the big modern port up the road with its gas and oil rigs under repair.
The mountains are dramatic, awe inspiring and peaceful and they drop you out over by the Indian Ocean.  Stunning coastline and a level of peace you don't get on the Gulf Coast. Only Sharjah hits both sides of the peninsula.
So back to the Qanat.  An artificial canal joining an artificial lagoon to the natural creek and the Buhairah Corniche.  Last year we spent a great day on that Corniche watching the Power Boat racing - for free.  The buildings along the canal include terrific restaurants including my favourite Lebanese in the whole of the UAE - Shababeek.  And cafes - where else would I work?  No need for an office.  The big wheel (smaller than London Eye but you get the principle) has a dancing fountain at its foot.  But unlike it's bigger brother in Dubai this fountain is full of kids playing among the jets and dancing to the music. And at night it's buzzing like the walk in JBR in Dubai but with NO TRAFFIC!

I live in Ajman now - for financial reasons.  I may have to consider a move to Ras al Khaimah for work reasons.  But if not I think a move back to the Qanat is in sight soon.  Home...you can't beat it.

Moving on; going to Sharjah

Although Dubai in particular is only Muslim in the same rather secular way UK is Christian, Islam has shaped the culture over the centuries. Fatalism is ever present and a vague background reverence to God is always there. There are fervent Muslims here of course, just as there are fervent Christian in UK. But it does not dominate every aspect of daily life as in say KSA or Sharjah where I lived for some time.
After a couple of years I left Habtoor – you can only sit on your arse doing nothing for so long. And I have attempted to become self employed again. I moved out of the company apartment to the neighbouring Emirate of Sharjah.
This is less well known in Europe and has a terrible reputation here. Dubai traffic is horrible but it’s a walk in the park compared to Sharjah where the roads are smaller and the drivers even more badly behaved. But that aside it is in reality a modern developing city and economy more similar to Dubai than most locals will admit.
It’s a fairly strict Muslim country though. This is most obvious in the conservative dress code, no alcohol and the many more mosques, which are well attended. But it doesn’t hurt the quality of life in any way whatever people in Dubai believe.
None of my friends have visited here – we always go to them. It’s like a barrier. Yet we live in an equally multi-cultural friendly society. I have a 22nd floor modern two bed apartment – fully serviced – on the Buhairah Corniche and the Qanat al Qasba which costs me less than an unfurnished, unserviced one bed apartment in a very ordinary location in Dubai – and if it were in the Marina or Business Bay…well I’d have to get a mortage to pay the rent! I have a pool and a gym and unlike Dubai I am a two minute drive (well maybe an hour in the busy periods) from a vast public beach and the bath warm of the Arabian Gulf. For free – which you can’t really do in Dubai any more. On the Qanat are cafés and restaurants galore with free or cheap internet connections. I can spend ½ a day there working with coffee and baklava to hand and then go back in the evening for dinner.
There is no self employed culture here in UAE because labour is so cheap and the laws protecting it are lax. It’s generally cheaper and easier to hire someone for a job and simply get rid of them when it’s over. But this is changing as are the laws governing how a foreigner like me can work. Now I can very cheaply incorporate a Free Zone Company which will give me both a residents visa and a work permit. Having left my employer I had no visa so for the last 2 years I’ve been working round the region for British companies who pay me from UK. And as a British passport holder I can have an endlessly renewable 30- day visit visa.
This has produced some restrictions – I lost my local credit cards for example and I’ve not been able to rent a long term apartment. On the plus side I’ve been paid in sterling and the rates have been very favourable of late (the local currency is pegged to the dollar and that of course has been in the toilet).
We plan to stay for the long haul. Under UAE rules you have to leave the country on retirement. You can’t have a residence visa unless you are working or own a property. So we’ll be buying a property which will allow us to stay indefinitely – albeit renewing our visa every so often.
That’s why earlier I said that 80% of the population is expats. There are no real immigrants because you can’t stay and you can’t get citizenship. I don’t think this is sustainable permanently. There is no commitment to the country from 80% of the populace and it is damaging both society and the economy.
So in the end we are a different kind of expat than most. We would be immigrants if we could. And we’ll stay as long as we can. But one day they may force us to decamp and that will be sad. But it will be to somewhere like Lebanon or Syria or Iraq which by then insha’allah will be more peaceful

Post Crash

The posts up till now are extracted from an article I wrote for a magazine but too long to put here in one piece.  But they've set me thinking about how things have changed here in the last 18 months and especially since the more visible crash towards the end of 2009.
Traffic for one.  The roadbuilding programme has continued apace.  Perhaps somewhat slowed from the mad dash of the bubble years but nonetheless...
Yet at the same time the number of vehicles has noticeably decreased.  This is very visible in Dubai where even the rush hour is bearable.  Compared to Sharjah for instance it is a positive pleasure to drive in Dubai - free flowing traffic and wide roads.  Most of the worst bottlenecks have gone. 
The dangerously stupid, selfish, arrogant,  unskilled driving hasn't gone though so it remains a frustrating and dangerous experience albeit a much quicker one.
There's a partially open Metro now in Dubai too.   It's a boon if you live and work close enough to be able to use it and once the rest is open sometime this year it's usefulness will go up exponentially.  Pity about the busses though.
There's plenty of them and they run frequently.  But they have typical UAE drivers.  Too focussed on speed and no thought for their passengers or other road users.  The experience fills you with terror AND makes you feel sick from the weaving and too fast cornering.  No fun at all and I know many who've chosen not to use them again - me included.  That's a great waste and I'm a big fan of bus travel in cities elsewhere.
Dubai housing is still ridiculously expensive though it has plunged dramatically.  It's merely excessive now rather that outrageous.  But it is still USD1300/month for a small one bed flat in an outlying area!
There's life in the business world too.  At the end of '09 my pipeline was empty.  Even of prospects.  Now there are prospects, including a really sweet deal that I want to talk about at length if it comes off.  But economic activity has returned and you feel it in the atmosphere.  One of my Anglo friends is even having to hand off work as he's overloaded.  I remember those days.  They'll be back more widely soon - though the bubble has burst and Abu Dhabi will see we don't try to recreate it any time soon.

18 April 2010

Impressions...Three, Society & Clothes

Yvonne, my wife was a little nervous to begin with. Arab countries do not have a great reputation in the West for their acceptance of women in society. Well that may be true in some places – KSA for example – but not here. Although customs vary she can pretty much be herself. Indian and Arab women spend little time with their husbands in public. But that doesn’t mean that a Western woman who wants to sit in a café alone gets bothered or ignored or treated badly. In fact people love to talk – non threatening and very interested. A smile and an invitation to chat always produce great results. And no hassle. And she’ll often go and sit and talk to a group of Emirati women all in Black and be made very welcome.
Emirati Society has changed in the last 35 years since independence. They are much less approachable and friendly than before. It’s much harder to make acquaintance deeply – get beyond the basic social niceties. Consequently I only have a couple of local friends – though that’s a couple more than many Westerners. Perhaps that’s a consequence of being a minority in your own country. Whatever, it’s a change and a sadness. The old style is till there in some of the other Emirates as well as Oman and Bahrain and to some extent in Qatar but it’s gone from Dubai.
But Arabs from elsewhere remain unbelievably inviting. Endlessly curious to learn more about our world- its good bits and its bad bits and endlessly willing to share the same about their world.
A word about the clothes. Emirati men – and some others – wear the Kandoura (dishdasha as it’s called elsewhere) – that’s the white robe we associate with Gulf Arabs in particular. Women wear the black Abaya. This is actually a light coat and underneath is a variety of clothes from jeans and Tshirt to very glamourous long flowing Arabic dresses. The Gutra – the headdress of generally white or checkered cloth – is part of the men’s costume. The ladies wear a Hijab almost invariably though a minority are totally covered.
And a head covering is vital in this climate and even poor labourers on building sites will use a towel or cloth over the head to keep off the sun.
The traditional men’s clothing (I can’t speak for the ladies’) is generally comfortable and cool because it keeps the air flowing and the sun off your head. But it’s hard to drive in and going to the men’s room can be a little daunting. It also helps explain why squat toilets were the norm here.
Oh…and the puddles on the floors in toilets are not unhygienic messes – on the contrary it where people wash down the whole thing for the next user. Honest.